Fabric glossary

Fabric Composition Labels Explained: What PES, CO, LI, VI and PAN Mean

What fabric composition codes mean: PES, CO, LI, VI, PA, PAN and more, how blends are written, and what each fibre means for curtains and sofas.

By the JOTEX Fabrics product teamUpdated 3 min read

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Short answer

Composition labels give each fibre's share by weight in short codes: PES or PL is polyester, CO cotton, LI linen, VI or CV viscose, PA nylon and PAN acrylic. A blend lists the main fibre first, as in 85% PES 15% LI. The fibre mix tells you how a fabric will crease, fade, shrink and clean.

What do the fibre codes mean?

CodeFibreWhat it means for curtains and sofas
PES, PL, POLYPolyesterStrong, resists creasing and fading, shrinks little; most curtain fabric
CO, COTCottonSoft and matt, takes colour well; creases and can shrink
LILinen (flax)Crisp, slubby texture; creases readily and weakens in strong sun
VI, CVViscose (rayon)Soft drape and sheen; weaker when wet, can shrink
PAPolyamide (nylon)Very hard-wearing; a small share adds strength
PANAcrylicSoft and wool-like; solution-dyed acrylic is the outdoor standard
WOWoolWarm and resilient; rarely used for curtains in Malaysia
SESilkLustrous but delicate; fades and weakens in sun
ELElastaneStretch; common in clothing, rare in furnishing fabric

Labels are not always written the same way. "100% PES", "100% POLYESTER" and "100% POLY" all mean the same fibre, and some suppliers write the fibre name in full.

How are blends written?

Each fibre is listed with its percentage by weight, usually largest first, adding up to 100%. Some examples from the JOTEX range:

  • 92% PES 8% LI: TEKUSU ALHAMBRA, a polyester blackout with a touch of linen for texture.
  • 85% PES 15% linen: AMAYA, a linen-blend blackout.
  • 50% PES 50% CO: FAY, a multipurpose flat weave, half polyester and half cotton.
  • 90% PES 10% nylon: MARC, a textured upholstery fabric.
  • 100% CO: ORGANIC, an all-cotton multipurpose fabric.

A backing or coating may be noted after the fibres, as on TEKUSU MIDORI: "100% polyester, silicon backing". See Blackout Coatings Explained.

What does a small percentage change?

  • 10 to 20% linen in a polyester gives a linen look and handle while keeping polyester's stability. See Linen-Look Curtains.
  • 5 to 10% nylon adds abrasion resistance, useful in upholstery.
  • Cotton in a polyester blend softens the handle and gives a more matt, natural look.

As a rule, the fibre that makes up most of the fabric decides how it behaves, but the care label always decides how to clean it.

Good to know

Two fabrics with the same composition can still behave very differently. Weave, weight, yarn and finish matter as much as the fibre. See How to Read a Fabric Specification Sheet.

Which composition suits which use?

UseGood choiceWhy
Curtains in sunny roomsPolyester or polyester-rich blendsResists fading, creasing and humidity
Linen look without the creasesPES with 10 to 20% LITexture of linen, stability of polyester
Family sofasPolyester, or PES with nylonHard-wearing and easy to clean
Outdoor seating and shadesSolution-dyed acrylic (PAN)Colour through the fibre, made for sun and rain
A natural, matt feelCotton or cotton-rich blendsSoft and breathable; accept more creasing and care

See Cotton vs Linen vs Polyester and Outdoor Fabric: Solution-Dyed Acrylic.

Frequently asked questions

What does PES mean on a fabric label?

Polyester. PL and POLY are other common abbreviations for the same fibre.

What do CO and LI mean?

CO is cotton and LI is linen.

What does 85% PES 15% LI mean?

The fabric is 85% polyester and 15% linen by weight: mostly polyester, with linen for texture.

What is PAN fabric?

Acrylic (polyacrylonitrile). Solution-dyed acrylic is the usual fibre for outdoor furnishing fabric.

Is a higher percentage of natural fibre better?

Not for every use. Natural fibres feel softer, but in Malaysia's sun and humidity polyester-rich fabrics usually crease, fade and shrink less.

Curtain maker, upholsterer or designer?

Specifications are public on every collection page. JOTEX dealers can log in for live stock and pricing, and our team can send samples or open a dealer account.