What Is Jacquard Fabric?
By the JOTEX Fabrics product team · Updated
Short answer
Jacquard is a fabric whose pattern is woven into the cloth on a jacquard loom, which lifts each warp thread individually. Because the design is built from the yarns rather than printed on the surface, it cannot wash out or rub off, and the fabric has more texture and body than a print. Damask and brocade are both types of jacquard.
How jacquard fabric is made
On an ordinary loom, the lengthwise warp threads are raised in groups by a small number of frames called shafts. That limits the weave to simple structures: plain weave, twill, satin and small repeating geometrics. A jacquard loom controls every warp thread on its own, so the weaver can take any thread over or under the crosswise weft at any point in the cloth. That freedom is what makes large florals, damasks, pictorial designs and fine tonal effects possible.
The mechanism is named after Joseph Marie Jacquard, who demonstrated it in France in 1804. His loom read the pattern from a chain of punched cards, one card per row of weaving, an idea later borrowed for early computing. Modern jacquard looms are driven electronically from design software, but the principle has not changed.
Jacquard describes how a fabric is woven, not what it is made of. A jacquard can be polyester, cotton, linen, viscose, silk or a blend. In the JOTEX range, MILANO is 100% polyester, while JODI is a cotton-rich blend of 59% cotton and 41% polyester.
Types of jacquard
Several fabric names you will meet in a sample library are simply particular kinds of jacquard:
| Type | How it is woven | What it looks like | Typical use |
|---|---|---|---|
| Damask | Pattern formed by contrasting satin and matte weave areas, usually in one or two colours | Flat and reversible; the design shows as a change in sheen as light moves across it | Formal curtains, table linen |
| Brocade | Extra weft yarns float on the surface to form a raised pattern | Raised, often multi-coloured or metallic; loose floats on the back | Decorative curtains, cushions |
| Matelassé | Two layers woven together into one cloth | Quilted, padded relief with no stitching | Bedspreads, cushions, headboards |
| Figured jacquard | Florals, geometrics and textures in two or more yarn colours | Textured pattern that varies from tonal to high contrast | Curtains, cushions, upholstery |
The JOTEX jacquard range covers most of these looks: a damask in MONTI, a floral in MORGAN, a herringbone in MERCATO, a geometric in JODI and an animal-skin design in KINGDOM.
Jacquard vs printed fabric
| Jacquard | Printed fabric | |
|---|---|---|
| Pattern | Woven in with the yarns | Applied to the surface of a plain cloth |
| Texture | Raised or tonal; changes with the light | Flat |
| Reverse side | Shows the design, often with the colours reversed | Plain or a faded image of the print |
| How long the pattern lasts | As long as the fabric | Can wear with abrasion and long sun exposure |
| Colour and detail | Limited by the number of yarn colours on the loom | Unlimited, down to photographic detail |
| Cost | Higher: slower weaving and more yarn | Lower |
Choose a jacquard where the fabric is seen up close and handled: living and dining room curtains, bedheads and cushions. Choose a print for bold, many-coloured or photographic designs, or where the budget matters most.
Choosing jacquard for curtains
- Weight and drape. A jacquard is usually heavier and fuller than a plain weave of the same fibre, so it falls in structured, rounded folds. The JOTEX jacquards run from about 160 gsm (MORGAN) to about 262 gsm (JODI). They suit French pleat and double pleat headings, and S-fold on a ceiling track.
- Width. Most JOTEX jacquards are extra-wide, from 295 cm to 330 cm, so the fabric can be run sideways (railroaded) to make a full-height curtain with no vertical seams. Wide curtain jacquards are usually designed to be used this way, but check the direction of the pattern on the sample before you cut.
- Pattern repeat. For joined widths, allow one extra pattern repeat per drop so every width can be shifted to line up at the seam, and cut all drops from the same batch so the colour matches.
- Light and lining. How much light a jacquard lets through depends on its density and colour. For a dark bedroom, add a blackout lining. On west-facing windows, a lining also protects the fabric from direct sun and hides the back of the weave.
Jacquard for cushions and upholstery
A jacquard can be used for upholstery only if its weave is tight enough for the wear. Check the Martindale rub count on the collection page. As a guide, 15,000 to 25,000 rubs suits general home seating and 30,000 rubs and above suits heavy daily use and commercial seating. Look at the back of the fabric too: long floats catch on rings, zips and pets' claws, so choose a tight weave with short floats for seating.
The JOTEX jacquard collections are made as curtain fabrics. MONTI and MERCATO, both rated at 20,000 rubs, also work well for cushions, bed runners and headboards. For a sofa in daily use, choose from the upholstery ranges such as YarnGuard.
How to care for jacquard fabric
- Follow the care label first. Polyester jacquards generally tolerate a gentle, cool machine wash; cotton-, linen- and viscose-rich jacquards can shrink, so dry clean them or wash cold, and allow for shrinkage when making up.
- Do not wring or tumble dry on high heat. Hang curtains to dry and rehang them while slightly damp so they settle into their folds.
- Iron on the reverse, on a low setting, so the raised pattern is not flattened or made shiny.
- Vacuum curtains regularly with a soft brush attachment. In Malaysia's humidity, dust holds moisture, and regular cleaning helps prevent mildew marks.
- If a float is snagged, do not cut it. Ease the pulled yarn back through to the reverse with a blunt needle.
JOTEX jacquard collections
JOTEX Fabrics supplies jacquard curtain fabrics to curtain makers, upholsterers and interior designers across Malaysia and Singapore. Composition, width, weight and colourways are public on each collection page. See all of them on the jacquard fabric page.
- ANITAJOTEX FABRICS · 60% Cotton 40% Polyester · 30 colourways
Frequently asked questions
Is jacquard fabric good quality?
Jacquard is a weaving method, so quality depends on the fibre, the density of the weave and the finish. Because the pattern is woven in rather than printed, a jacquard usually looks richer and keeps its design longer than a printed fabric of the same weight. Compare composition, weight and rub count to judge one jacquard against another.
What is the difference between jacquard and damask?
Damask is one type of jacquard. It is usually woven in one or two colours, with the pattern formed by contrasting satin and matte areas, and it is reversible. Every damask is a jacquard, but a jacquard can also be a brocade, a matelassé or a multi-coloured figured design.
Is jacquard fabric cotton or polyester?
It can be either, or a blend. Jacquard describes how the fabric is woven, not the fibre. Polyester jacquards are easier to care for and resist fading better in strong sun; cotton-rich jacquards feel softer and more natural but can shrink when washed.
Does jacquard fabric shrink?
Polyester jacquards are generally stable. Jacquards with a high cotton, linen or viscose content can shrink when washed, so follow the care label, allow for it when making up, or have the curtains dry cleaned.
Can jacquard be used for a sofa?
Some jacquards can. Check the Martindale rating: about 15,000 to 25,000 rubs suits general home seating and 30,000 rubs and above suits heavy daily use. Choose a tight weave with short floats if the sofa gets daily use or there are pets in the home.
Why is jacquard more expensive than printed fabric?
A jacquard is woven more slowly, uses more yarn and needs a more complex loom set-up for every design. A print is applied in one pass to a plain base cloth, which makes it cheaper to produce.
Curtain maker, upholsterer or designer?
Specifications are public on every collection page. JOTEX dealers can log in for live stock and pricing. Contact the JOTEX team to request samples or open a dealer account.