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Short answer
Twill is a weave in which each weft thread passes over and under the warp one step further along than the row before, forming fine diagonal lines. It is denser and softer than plain weave and hides marks well, which makes it hard-wearing. Denim, gabardine and herringbone are all twills.
How does twill weave work?
In a plain weave, each weft thread goes over one warp thread and under the next. In a twill, each weft passes over two or more warp threads, and the starting point shifts one step along on every row. The floats line up as a diagonal rib, called the wale. Changing the number of threads crossed, or reversing the diagonal, gives different twills.
Twill vs plain weave vs satin
| Plain weave | Twill | Satin | |
|---|---|---|---|
| Pattern | Simple over-under grid | Diagonal lines | Long floats; smooth face |
| Surface | Flat, matt | Textured diagonal | Smooth, with a sheen |
| Drape | Crisper | Softer, drapes well | Fluid |
| Shows marks | More | Less; the diagonal hides them | More; snags easily |
| Examples | Voile, canvas, many dimouts | Denim, gabardine, herringbone | Satin, sateen, damask grounds |
What are the types of twill?
- Regular twill: a continuous diagonal, as in denim and gabardine.
- Herringbone (broken twill): the diagonal reverses at intervals, making a zigzag. See What Is Herringbone Fabric?
- Chevron: zigzags that meet in a sharp point.
- Houndstooth: a twill woven in two colours, forming broken checks.
Is twill good for curtains and sofas?
Yes. Twill drapes softly, so it hangs well as a curtain, and its dense, diagonal surface hides wear and marks on upholstery. In the JOTEX range, CALBY is a 100% polyester herringbone dimout in 22 colourways, and MERCATO a 100% polyester herringbone jacquard rated at 20,000 Martindale rubs, which also suits cushions and headboards. For daily seating, check the rub count. See Martindale Rub Test Explained.
Frequently asked questions
What is twill weave?
A weave in which each row shifts one step along, forming fine diagonal lines. Denim and herringbone are twills.
Is twill stronger than plain weave?
Twill is usually denser and hides wear better, though the yarn and weave density matter most for durability.
Is herringbone a twill?
Yes. Herringbone is a broken twill, in which the diagonal reverses at regular intervals.
How do I recognise twill fabric?
Look for fine diagonal lines on the face of the fabric.
Curtain maker, upholsterer or designer?
Specifications are public on every collection page. JOTEX dealers can log in for live stock and pricing, and our team can send samples or open a dealer account.