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Short answer
Satin is a weave, not a fibre. Its threads float over several others before interlacing, so the face is smooth and reflects light with a sheen, while the back is dull. Satin can be made from silk, polyester, viscose or other fibres; sateen is the same weave in spun, often cotton, yarns, with a softer, matt-silk look. Satin weaves give damask its shine and make smooth curtain linings; as a face fabric they look formal but snag more easily than tighter weaves.
How the satin weave works
In a plain weave, each thread goes over one and under one. In a satin weave, a thread floats over four or more threads before it goes under one, and the interlacings are spread out so they hardly show. The long floats lie flat and parallel, so the face is very smooth and reflects light evenly, which is the sheen satin is known for. The back, where the floats do not show, is dull.
The same long floats are why satin drapes fluidly, and why it can snag.
Satin vs sateen vs silk
| What it is | Look | |
|---|---|---|
| Satin | A weave with long floats, usually in smooth filament yarns | Bright sheen, very smooth |
| Sateen | The satin weave in spun yarns, often cotton | Softer, lower sheen, matt-silk look |
| Silk | A fibre, which can be woven as satin or in any other weave | Depends on the weave |
| Polyester satin | The satin weave in polyester filament | High sheen, durable, easy care |
So a satin is not necessarily silk, and silk is not necessarily satin.
Where satin weaves turn up
- Damask: the pattern is made by contrasting a shiny satin weave with a matt one, which is why damask shimmers tone on tone. See Floral and Damask Curtain Fabric.
- Curtain linings: cotton sateen is a traditional lining, smooth enough for the curtain to slide and hang well. See Curtain Lining.
- Formal curtains and drapes: a lustrous face for hotels, ballrooms and traditional rooms.
- Cushions, bed runners and trims: a touch of sheen against matt fabrics.
Satin for curtains and cushions
| Use | Works? | Watch out for |
|---|---|---|
| Curtains | Yes, for a formal look | Shows every crease and fold; line it |
| Cushions and runners | Yes | Snags on rings, buckles and pets |
| Sofas | Rarely | Long floats snag and wear; choose a tighter weave |
| Linings | Yes, as sateen | Choose a lining suited to the face fabric |
Tip
Sheen shows light and shadow strongly. A satin curtain in full sun reflects light; in a dim room it can look darker than the sample. Check it in the room at different times of day.
Caring for satin
- Follow the care label; polyester satin is easier than silk.
- Avoid rough surfaces, hooks and jewellery that can pull floats.
- Iron on the back at a low setting; heat and pressure on the face can leave shiny marks.
- Line satin curtains on sunny windows; satin and silk can fade and weaken in strong sun. See Light-Fastness Explained.
Frequently asked questions
Is satin a fabric or a weave?
A weave. Satin describes how the threads are interlaced, with long floats on the face. It can be made from silk, polyester, viscose or other fibres.
What is the difference between satin and sateen?
Both use the satin weave. Satin is usually made from smooth filament yarns and is shinier; sateen uses spun yarns, often cotton, and has a softer, lower sheen.
Is satin the same as silk?
No. Silk is a fibre and satin is a weave. Silk can be woven as satin, but most satin today is polyester.
Is satin good for curtains?
For a formal look, yes. It drapes fluidly and catches the light, but shows creases and can snag, so line it and keep it away from rough fittings.
Why is one side of satin shiny and the other dull?
The long floats that reflect light lie on the face. On the back, the threads interlace in a way that does not show the floats, so it is dull.
Curtain maker, upholsterer or designer?
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